The Story of Saint Costanzo

Il 29 gennaio si festeggia San Costanzo, primo Vescovo e di Perugia e uno dei patroni del capoluogo umbro insieme a San Lorenzo e Sant’Ercolano. La storia della vita di San Costanzo e ciò che ne aleggia intorno è ricco di meraviglia, stupore, fede e misticismo con un pizzico di romanticismo e di dolcezze. Vediamo perché.

On January 29th, Saint Costanzo is celebrated, the first Bishop of Perugia, and one of the patrons of the Umbrian capital, along with Saint Lorenzo and Saint Ercolano. The story of the life of Saint Costanzo and what surrounds it is rich in wonder, amazement, faith, and mysticism, with a touch of romanticism and sweetness. Let’s see why.

 

Saint Costanzo, the Martyr

In “Mille Santi del Giorno” by Piero Bargellini, a collection of stories about the lives of saints, the description of Costanzo can be traced back to around the 2nd century AD. He was a man dedicated to faith, kindness, and generosity towards the poor, with a strong sense of duty to the Christian Church, especially during the persecutions of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.

 

It is narrated that Costanzo, under the rule of Marcus Aurelius, was martyred and brutally persecuted: confined in the calidarium (ancient Roman baths) at extremely high temperatures, he miraculously emerged unharmed. He was arrested several times and forced to walk on burning coals, but nothing could shake the faith of Saint Costanzo. Around the year 178, he was arrested again and beheaded in Foligno. His remains were then returned to Perugia, where he found rest in what would later become the first Cathedral of Perugia, outside the gates of San Pietro, now known as the Church of San Costanzo.

 

The Tradition of the Wink

For lovers of romanticism, here’s a legend that during the celebrations of the Saint, the image of San Costanzo can “wink” at unmarried girls (and virgins according to medieval tradition) who present themselves in the Church where the Saint rests, to inquire if they will marry within the year. Of course, it’s a play of lights and shadows that makes the whole thing magical with a hint of love.

 

For young ladies without the foresight of a happy event predicted by the Saint, the boyfriend will give them the typical Perugian sweet, especially associated with the Feast of San Costanzo, the Torcolo.

 

The Torcolo of San Costanzo

The typical sweet of the tradition to celebrate San Costanzo is indeed the Torcolo, behind which many legends and mysteries related to the Saint are hidden, making this sweet still charming and full of history today.

 

It is handed down, in fact, that the torcolo is shaped like a ring to recall the crown of flowers placed on the Saint’s body after decapitation, or that the hole represents the severed head of the Saint, and finally, that its donut shape refers to the crown removed from the head of the Saint once decapitated. This is why a sweet studded with colored candied fruits, in memory of the precious stones of the crown! The five cuts on the donut can be traced back to the entrances to the five districts of the historic center of Perugia: Porta San Pietro, Porta Sole, Porta Eburnea, Porta Susanna, and Porta Sant’Angelo.

 

The Torcolo of San Costanzo, despite its great importance during the celebration on January 29th, is a sweet that is now enjoyed in Umbria throughout the year!

 

Photo Credits

Regione Umbria

Umbria Tourism

Come di Perugia

On the Trail of Don Matteo in Spoleto

Spoleto, a hidden gem nestled among the green Umbrian hills, is a place rich in history, culture, and charm. Besides being an ideal destination for art and gastronomy enthusiasts, Spoleto is famous for the Festival dei Due Mondi and as the city where the popular Italian television series “Don Matteo” is filmed. Let’s explore together the enchanted places in Spoleto that provide the backdrop for the adventures of our beloved detective priest!

Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and Palazzo Bufalini The majestic Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, also known as the Duomo di Spoleto, is the iconic location of the series. This masterpiece of Romanesque architecture houses extraordinary works of art and represents one of the holiest places in the city. In the plot of “Don Matteo,” the cathedral serves as the Rectory, the Carabinieri barracks, and the Parlor. Not far away, you can admire Piazza della Signoria, where many scenes of the fiction were shot. Palazzo Bufalini was used for external shots of the Carabinieri barracks.

Basilica of Sant’Eufemia and the Caio Melisso Theater Located inside the Episcopal Palace, built on the foundations of the ancient residence of the Lombard dukes, is the setting that hosts the Church of “Don Matteo.” Nearby is the Caio Melisso Theater, which, for the purposes of the fiction, becomes the prison parlor.

A Journey into the Heart of Spoleto Exploring the locations where the “Don Matteo” series is filmed is a fascinating experience that allows visitors to fully immerse themselves in the magic of the show. Spoleto, with its rich history, charming architecture, and mysterious aura, offers an unforgettable journey into the heart of Umbria.

If you are a fan of the series, there is no better way to experience the adventures of Don Matteo and his faithful friend Cecchini, played by Nino Frassica, than to personally visit these enchanted places. Spoleto will welcome you with open arms, offering not only the beauty of its monuments but also the opportunity to relive the exciting moments you loved on the screen.

So, get ready for a journey into the world of Don Matteo, exploring the same winding alleys and bustling squares that served as the backdrop for his most thrilling investigations. Spoleto awaits you with its secrets and stories to tell, ready to enchant you with its timeless charm.

From Spoleto to Marmore by bike

A three-day proposal in one of the most beautiful areas of Umbria, which combines the beauties of Spoleto and villages such as Sant’Anatolia, Scheggino, Ferentillo and Arrone, with the uncontaminated nature of the Valnerina, before ending in front of the stupendous spectacle of the Marmore waterfall.

The Lace Makers of Irish Lace on Isola Maggiore

In the early 20th century, Marchesa Elena Guglielmi introduced the technique of Irish lace-making to Isola Maggiore in Lake Trasimeno. Inspired by traditions originating in Irish monasteries in the late 19th century and following the ancient art of Venetian lace, the Marchesa’s vision was to bring this artistry to the island.

Unlike traditional lace made with needles and bobbins, this lace is crafted with a crochet hook using an extremely fine thread. The foresight of the Marchesa also led her to bring a teacher from Turin who could pass on the art of lace-making to the first island teacher, Elvira Tosetti. Elvira was entrusted with the foundation and direction of the lace school on the island for young women, daughters of fishermen, who, until then, engaged in various activities during the day without receiving any payment. The school provided them with the opportunity to receive professional training, learning various techniques for creating tablecloths, sheets, clothes, handkerchiefs, gloves, etc. This offered them a certain economic independence (earning about 390 lire in the first year and around 2300 lire in the second year) and the ability to contribute to family expenses.

They could be seen sitting at the doorstep of their homes, engrossed in crocheting and lacework. These young women and their creations soon gained esteem from noblewomen, regular customers of the school. The crafted items were soon exhibited at the permanent market show of Italian Decorative Arts in Perugia, and sample books were sent to Industrie Femminili Italiane in Rome, ultimately being sold throughout Italy and abroad. The Irish lace from Isola Maggiore became famous and highly appreciated, positively contributing to the island’s economy, especially during fishing crises.

Later, in the 1930s, with changes in fashion and influences coming from America, Irish lace fell out of style, leading to the closure of the school. However, the island women continued to work on lace for their personal trousseaus and as an inheritance.

In 1963, Isolana Maria Vittoria Semolesti revived the activity by founding a cooperative of lace makers for the sale of Irish lace. Although the cooperative closed in 1975, the lace makers continued to work individually. Via Guglielmi, with its lace makers, became one of the attractions on the island, drawing tourists who admired the lace-making process. Even today, you can find a few lace makers working at their doorsteps.

The last lace makers of Isola Maggiore, all descendants of Maria Vittoria Semolesti’s school, still operate today. In the center of the island, in the palace that once housed the Brotherhood of Santa Maria dei Disciplinati, the Lace Museum was established, showcasing the works created by the women of Isola Maggiore from 1904 to the end of the 20th century.

Pic nic at Big Bench Azienda Carini

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      Montepulciano City Tour

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        Circuito Mestieri Medievali Bevagna

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            Museo di San Francesco Montefalco

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              Umbrian Christmas Recipes

              Christmas Flavor in Umbria: A Culinary Journey through Typical Recipes

               

              Christmas is a magical celebration, and what better way to celebrate it than immersing oneself in the culinary traditions of a region rich in history and authenticity? In Umbria, the Christmas table is a true spectacle of flavors, with dishes that reflect generosity and love for local traditions. In this article, we will explore some of the typical Christmas recipes in Umbria, offering a taste of the gastronomic heritage that makes this region unique.

              The typical family Christmas menu in Umbria.

              Appetizers:

              Chicken Liver Crostini
              A simple recipe, typical of the peasant tradition in this region, widely spread and appreciated throughout Central Italy. Chicken liver pâté crostini are always present on the table, especially during the holiday season. It is an appetizer with a very distinctive flavor, slightly tangy and quite savory. The pâté is made with chicken livers and is excellent when paired with Umbrian rustic bread – known for being low in salt – lightly toasted. The warm and fragrant crostini served with this flavorful sauce pairs well with a good glass of local red wine.

              Chicken Galantine
              An Umbrian dish considered a classic of Christmas lunch in the regional tradition. It seems that it was usually the housewives who cooked it in exchange for money or, more often, according to simple barter rules, for other essential products. It can be reasonably assumed that not only did every town, fortress, or village exhibit its own galantine recipe, claiming it to be the best, but every woman or man who ventured into the task had their own personal interpretation. This stuffed chicken terrine is both majestic, intimidating, and instructive. We could consider it a kind of relic of “synthetic” cuisine, as it puts everything (literally everything) together. It’s also a bit like a Chinese puzzle box, as each element is skillfully fitted inside the other. It starts with the chicken, deboned and gutted. The outer layer is filled with meat (chicken, beef, salted tongue, ground pork), eggs, mortadella (but also ham and lard), pistachios, cream, truffles. The resulting food chimera is secured with sturdy strings (twine), cooked in broth, and, once cooled, served in slices with chicken jelly.

              First Course:

              Cappelletti in Broth
              Homemade cappelletti are a must during the Christmas holidays in Umbria. These small ravioli filled with beef and pork are cooked and served in a rich broth, providing warmth and comfort to diners during the cold winter days.

              Second Course:

              Stewed Capon
              It is a castrated rooster cooked slowly in a rich sauce based on red wine and aromas such as rosemary and bay leaves. The capon is marinated with garlic, white wine, and herbs before cooking. Often accompanied by side dishes like mashed potatoes, Stewed Capon represents Umbrian culinary tradition, offering a tasty dish symbolizing conviviality.

              Desserts:

              Panpepato
              Panpepato is one of the most beloved Christmas delicacies in Umbria. A mixture of nuts, almonds, candied fruit, honey, chocolate, and a myriad of spices, this sweet recalls the Sienese panforte but with a unique Umbrian touch. It is a true explosion of Christmas flavors that delights the senses.

              Torciglione
              Among the typical Umbrian Christmas sweets, there is one with a very particular shape: torciglione. Its origins are still uncertain: some claim that its shape resembles a lake eel, others that of a snake. Regardless of its history, it is a famous sweet throughout the region, with various versions that can vary in dosage or the presence of certain ingredients, but especially in the final decorations, leaving ample space for creativity.

              Rocciata
              A traditional sweet during the winter holiday period (from early November to Carnival), mainly prepared at Christmas, roc- ciata is a typical recipe of Foligno, Assisi, and Spello. Its spiral shape resembles that of a snake coiled upon itself, and its red color is given by alchermes. Inside the dough, a rich filling of cooked apples with walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, dried figs, raisins, and chocolate. Naturally, there are variations based on the area and family traditions, which usually remain secret!

              Pinoccata
              Traditional Christmas sweets in Perugia, pinoccate are packaged in colorful and festive papers that brighten shop windows, gift baskets, and tables. It seems that these sweets were in use among Benedictine monks since the 14th century and were still consumed at the end of lavish Christmas lunches in the late 18th century.

              Almost exclusive to the Umbrian capital, this sweet owes its name, known in variations such as pinoccati, pinocchiati, pinoccate, and pinocchiate, to pine nuts, formerly more frequently called pinocchi, which constitute its main ingredient and give it an unusual and spicy taste. It consists of a mixture composed only of water and sugar boiled until obtaining a thick syrup, in which a quantity of pine nuts almost equivalent to that of sugar is immersed. On half of the dough, from which many small diamonds will then be drawn, cocoa is added, useful to dampen the excessive sweet taste and also to diversify these products, then wrapped in pairs: one white and the other black.

              The contrast between the two colors seems to evoke medieval decorative taste when very distant colors were approached, a taste found in architecture, decorative arts, but also in coats of arms, shields, banners, and banners (not to mention games – from checkers to chess – and city factions like whites and blacks). The packaging with which the sweet is presented seems to refer to the same medieval and Renaissance world: wrapped in paper as if it were a large candy, it is similar to those “throwing sweets” that were actually thrown during mock battles between knights and in tournaments of the feasts of those distant times.

               

              Your Christmas in Umbria

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